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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 08:05 pm |
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the preacher wrote:
sorry bro, sometimes I jus caint hep mysef....
hope I dont get in trouble for plagiarizing a movie....
Should we start callin' ya "Rhett"?
LOL
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 06:41 pm |
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the preacher wrote: sorry bro, sometimes I jus caint hep mysef....
hope I dont get in trouble for plagiarizing a movie.... Frankly Scarlet, I bet they don't give a dang.......LOL!!!
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the preacher
Supporter
| Joined: | Wed Oct 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 313 |
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 05:50 pm |
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sorry bro, sometimes I jus caint hep mysef....
hope I dont get in trouble for plagiarizing a movie....
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 03:01 pm |
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the preacher wrote:
re: switches: if all you got is horn, start and high low beam, you can get by with just the switch housing on the MC side.
center on high low switch, power
upper: one beam
lower: other beam
(ps: you will figure out which is which when you hook it up)
Start switch: yer on yer own Scarlet, I dont know nuthin bout wirin' no 'lectric starter
horn, like I said, run the power over from the power line of the headlight.
if ya need a diagram, lemme know, I can mail ya one.
RSDF
Just caught this...
Scarlet??? LMAO!
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 02:20 pm |
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The OEM horn is under the seat, forward of the rear wheel, behind the battery. POS location that's for sure...
No pictures until I'm finished. LMAO!
Things ain't too pretty right now. Headlight is torn apart and there's an Octopus of wires hanging everywhere...
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marc
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 01:26 pm |
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| Nice horn...Probably louder than the POS horn that came with my bike... I'm looking for a louder horn that does not require an air compressor like Revco...
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 01:08 pm |
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Send us some pics Davo....... Good horn pic... I wanta see the apes!!
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Fri Apr 18th, 2008 11:24 am |
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This is the like the horn I've been usin' for a couple of years now. So, that switch really ain't an issue! LMAO!
I've gotta sort through what I really wanna have for electrical. I've also gotta sort through about a dozen different wiring diagrams to determine exactly what I wanna do with the electrical. OEM? Stripped of all nonessentials? Hell, I don't know yet. I'll figure it out Tomorrow. Thanks for the offer, I think one of 'em is one that you sent me awhile back...
The bars are on. I had to use the short risers. Between the flex (Serious Flex) and the height, (The short ones worked out great!!) Plus, with the other risers, the bars felt like they were about 8-inches above my shoulders.
Had to order new throttle and clutch cables. Throttle fit fine. But, it was for an "FX" not an "FXR". Only real difference I could see, the FX uses a 45-degree bend and the FXR uses a 90 degree. Length-wise, it was fine. But, there was a pretty bad crack in the elbow.
The clutch cable was just plain short by about 4-inches. I tried rerouting it a couple of different ways. No dice...
Was able to run the brake line using 3/16ths hard line. I ran it to the bottom of the top tree, SS flex from there to the "T" at the bottom of the bottom tree. I was even able to use the line I had on the bike.
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the preacher
Supporter
| Joined: | Wed Oct 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 313 |
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 10:24 pm |
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re: switches: if all you got is horn, start and high low beam, you can get by with just the switch housing on the MC side.
center on high low switch, power
upper: one beam
lower: other beam
(ps: you will figure out which is which when you hook it up)
Start switch: yer on yer own Scarlet, I dont know nuthin bout wirin' no 'lectric starter
horn, like I said, run the power over from the power line of the headlight.
if ya need a diagram, lemme know, I can mail ya one.
RSDF
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 06:32 pm |
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I need both...
14-years bad luck...
Thanks Anyway Jeff...
Throttle cable works. No change on it. Damned if the batteries on the 19.2 Volt drill are shot. No drill motor. So, I may not be hidin' the wires. Crap...
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 06:11 pm |
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Dave wrote: LOL Jeff...
Well, I'm at the point of needing to decide what switches I'm gonna have on the bars that actually work. I've gutted the housings and cut the wires (long pigtails) for the starter button, kill switch and right turn-signal. Brake light switch is AFU (Previous Owner).
Gonna have to pull the front of the tank loose to re-route the throttle cable. Might fit, might not. Clutch cable is about 4-inches too short...
Pissers - Broke the one good mirror lense I had and chipped the paint on the front of the tank! Damn... I got one of them kinda small oval type mirrors you can have Dave. Its mounted to a stem approx 6" long.. You pay the shipping and I'll mail it to ya... Or first I'll take a pic of it and send to ya if you want?
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 06:05 pm |
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LOL Jeff...
Well, I'm at the point of needing to decide what switches I'm gonna have on the bars that actually work. I've gutted the housings and cut the wires (long pigtails) for the starter button, kill switch and right turn-signal. Brake light switch is AFU (Previous Owner).
Gonna have to pull the front of the tank loose to re-route the throttle cable. Might fit, might not. Clutch cable is about 4-inches too short...
Pissers - Broke the one good mirror lense I had and chipped the paint on the front of the tank! Damn...
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jeffy ole boy
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 05:18 pm |
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Dave wrote: Well, the bars and risers are on. Completely different feel from the drags. Waiting for auto-parts store to open. Need a few small pieces of hardware and the brake line... Might wanta pick up some underarm deoderant while your out too Davo, Cause your arm pits will be in the breeze now you know... Can't be stinkin' up the neighborhood....LOL!!
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 04:31 pm |
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| Well, the bars and risers are on. Completely different feel from the drags. Waiting for auto-parts store to open. Need a few small pieces of hardware and the brake line...
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 11:07 am |
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Been thinkin' about that one a bit there Preacher. (banjo to brake line) I've seen someone else do it. 'course that was another gray-beard and he did it with a shovel too...
I don't really think anything I've got in mind is gonna be all that difficult. Pretty sure someone has done it all before. So, I just have to get my rear-end in gear and tear into it...LOL
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the preacher
Supporter
| Joined: | Wed Oct 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 313 |
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 10:13 am |
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yer welcome...
ps: adapter for front brake line, find an Indy that handles Drag Specialties, they have the best selection of brake stuff like that.
You need an NPT to 10mm Banjo adapter if that is what you have on the handlebar M/C, BUT: last I checked, they do NOT have a male to banjo, so you would have to use a connector, which is gonna bulk up the fitting right where it shows the most. Might better use a braided, (again, Drag, they are a little smaller than Goodridge) as you can get the exact fittings you need already installed.
re: grey beard...yeah, and dont you forget it, young'un...ROFL
RSDF
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Dave
Supporter
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 03:09 am |
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LMAO Empty!!
I know that!! He's forgotten more about these things than I know. I've got some reading and digesting to do with what Preacher posted. Some of my ideas look like they'll work. While others? Good question.
Gotta have a "Gray-Beard" around to keep things right
Thanks Preacher...
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empty
Supporter
| Joined: | Tue Jun 28th, 2005 |
| Location: | Plano, Texas USA |
| Posts: | 1834 |
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Posted: Thu Apr 17th, 2008 03:03 am |
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the preacher wrote: re:
1 - Brake lines - I want the bars as clean as possible. Thinking about using a hard line for the brake line instead of braided stainless? How about running the hard-line inside the bars? Any one have an idea of the fittings needed for converting from a banjo-fitting (dual disc master cylinder) to a 3/16ths hard-line?
inside the bars too hard. Use 3/16ths steel from the auto parts store, with an adapter to banjo on the M/C..you can curve it so close to the bar you can hardly see it, the steel will polish up halfway decent and a coat of carwax will keep it that way. run the steel to the T under your bottom tree, leave the flexible ones as they are to the calipers.
re:
2 - Wiring - Planning on running the wiring inside the bars. Not sure that I'm going to use all the original wiring either. I haven't had turn-signals for a long time on my bike. Not really a priority now either. Seriously considering moving some of the electrical switches off the bars too. Really don't want a bunch of extra, unused wires on the bike or inside the bars.
no problem, use 5/16ths or 3/8ths where you need to get in under the switch box, use 3/8ths or 1/2 on the bottom of the bar to get them out.
You can cut down on one by hooking one side of the horn switch to the power feeding the headlight switch, then you only have one going out to the horn. Make SURE you deburr the INSIDE of the holes, and I always use a short length of shrink tubing that I didnt shrink over all the wires as a rub protector.
re:
Throttle Cable(s) - I've been running a single cable on the throttle for a long time too. Considering going back to a push/pull set up with dual cables again.
if it aint broke, dont fix it...dual is just something else to adjust or replace...if single works, leave it
re: 4 - Risers - I've got two sets of risers. (a) stubby, 2-inch OEM straight or (b) 4-up, 2-back curved risers. I got a feeling that the taller risers will create some issues with the bars. Seems like there will be more leverage against the bushings in the top tree. Work great with drag bars.
But, with taller, wider bars? Chances are I'm going to end up with the shorter risers...
short OEM will work fine on the stock isolators, have run them on my 16s, and running them on the 12s now. Little bit of leverage give, but not bad.
4 up, 2 back will require solid mount converters, (Barnett makes them, so do others) too much leverage even with 12s on 4 inch risers.
re: - Clutch Cable - I've talked to the indy about this. According to him, I'll have to replace the entire cable. I haven't done any shopping on this yet. May even consider going to a juice-type clutch. But, I think that cost is gonna kill that idea.
just figure out how much higher the clutch lever is going to be..i.e., measure from the clutch lever end of the stock cable to where the new lever location will be, then order that much over. I get away with the stock on the 12s, but I run a 4 speed, I think the cable hooks differently.
thats all I can help ya with bro...tires, yer on yer own, aint never had a set of narrow glides apart, rebuilding the MC aint hard, just DO NOT sand the bore to clean it up, you can't get it straight enough..use a hone if it is bad, some 0000steel wool soaked in brake fluid if it aint.
RSDF
Preacher
Dis ole guy's good.
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the preacher
Supporter
| Joined: | Wed Oct 17th, 2007 |
| Location: | |
| Posts: | 313 |
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 11:48 pm |
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re:
1 - Brake lines - I want the bars as clean as possible. Thinking about using a hard line for the brake line instead of braided stainless? How about running the hard-line inside the bars? Any one have an idea of the fittings needed for converting from a banjo-fitting (dual disc master cylinder) to a 3/16ths hard-line?
inside the bars too hard. Use 3/16ths steel from the auto parts store, with an adapter to banjo on the M/C..you can curve it so close to the bar you can hardly see it, the steel will polish up halfway decent and a coat of carwax will keep it that way. run the steel to the T under your bottom tree, leave the flexible ones as they are to the calipers.
re:
2 - Wiring - Planning on running the wiring inside the bars. Not sure that I'm going to use all the original wiring either. I haven't had turn-signals for a long time on my bike. Not really a priority now either. Seriously considering moving some of the electrical switches off the bars too. Really don't want a bunch of extra, unused wires on the bike or inside the bars.
no problem, use 5/16ths or 3/8ths where you need to get in under the switch box, use 3/8ths or 1/2 on the bottom of the bar to get them out.
You can cut down on one by hooking one side of the horn switch to the power feeding the headlight switch, then you only have one going out to the horn. Make SURE you deburr the INSIDE of the holes, and I always use a short length of shrink tubing that I didnt shrink over all the wires as a rub protector.
re:
Throttle Cable(s) - I've been running a single cable on the throttle for a long time too. Considering going back to a push/pull set up with dual cables again.
if it aint broke, dont fix it...dual is just something else to adjust or replace...if single works, leave it
re: 4 - Risers - I've got two sets of risers. (a) stubby, 2-inch OEM straight or (b) 4-up, 2-back curved risers. I got a feeling that the taller risers will create some issues with the bars. Seems like there will be more leverage against the bushings in the top tree. Work great with drag bars.
But, with taller, wider bars? Chances are I'm going to end up with the shorter risers...
short OEM will work fine on the stock isolators, have run them on my 16s, and running them on the 12s now. Little bit of leverage give, but not bad.
4 up, 2 back will require solid mount converters, (Barnett makes them, so do others) too much leverage even with 12s on 4 inch risers.
re: - Clutch Cable - I've talked to the indy about this. According to him, I'll have to replace the entire cable. I haven't done any shopping on this yet. May even consider going to a juice-type clutch. But, I think that cost is gonna kill that idea.
just figure out how much higher the clutch lever is going to be..i.e., measure from the clutch lever end of the stock cable to where the new lever location will be, then order that much over. I get away with the stock on the 12s, but I run a 4 speed, I think the cable hooks differently.
thats all I can help ya with bro...tires, yer on yer own, aint never had a set of narrow glides apart, rebuilding the MC aint hard, just DO NOT sand the bore to clean it up, you can't get it straight enough..use a hone if it is bad, some 0000steel wool soaked in brake fluid if it aint.
RSDF
Preacher
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marc
Supporter
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Posted: Wed Apr 16th, 2008 10:26 pm |
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I had a 21 inch on the front of my Wide Glide...Looked nice but not much meat on that little tire...Was lucky to get 10,000 miles out of those tires...I'd stick with your dual discs...JMHO...
Clutch cables - What Length & what year is your bike? Just looked in my J&P Catalogue and it looks like black vinyl is 2/3ds the price of stainless.
Throttle cables - Same as above...
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